what kind of soil do i need to plant blueberry plants

Blueberries can be grown in home gardens anywhere in North Carolina if the right species and proper soil modifications are used. Blueberries are typically used in the landscape as hedges for screening purposes, merely they can also be used in cluster plantings, or as single specimen plants. Blueberries are an ideal twelvemonth round add-on to the mural. They take delicate white or pink flowers in the spring, the summer fruit has an attractive sky blueish color, and the fall leaf adds not bad carmine and yellowish colors to the landscape. In add-on, blueberry plants lend themselves to the "organic" approach of gardening, since pesticides are rarely needed in dwelling house garden plantings.

Soil pH

Blueberries require a lower pH than many other small fruit crops. Earlier planting, accept a soil test. Apply wettable sulfur (90% S) if pH is above 5.3 for rabbiteye blueberries or 5.0 for highbush blueberries. Use 1.0 pound (2.5 cups) per 100 square feet on sandy soils to lower pH by 1 unit of measurement (for example, from half-dozen.0 to 5.0). Apply 2.0 pounds per 100 square anxiety for the same corporeality of pH lowering on heavier soils containing silt, clay or more than ii% organic affair. Try to achieve a pH of around 4.8; too much reduction tin be detrimental to bush growth. Apply sulfur at least three-4 months earlier planting, and take another soil test earlier planting. If pH is still above the adequate range, additional sulfur tin can be practical. If you must plant without an initial soil exam, mix 1 cubic foot of peat moss with an equal amount of sand. On a heavy clay soil or a soil that sometimes remains wet, put the peat-sand mixture on the soil surface. If you are certain the soil has proficient internal drainage, office of the peat-sand mixture can get in a hole or furrow several inches beneath the soil surface. However, leave plenty of the peat-sand mixture to class a mound (single institute) or ridge (row of plants) at least vi inches in a higher place the surrounding soil surface (Figure one). The mound or ridge will insure against damage from excess water, notwithstanding, with this planting method, water thoroughly two to 3 times per week during dry out periods, because the raised peat-sand mix will dry out out quickly.

Organic Additions

If the soil contains less than 2% organic matter (OM on soil test report) incorporating peat moss or well-decayed pine sawdust or bawl will improve plant survival and growth. Apply iii to 4 inches of the organic material over the row in a ring 18 to 24 inches broad and incorporate thoroughly using a roto-tiller or spade to a depth of 6 to eight inches. Preparing the beds in the autumn will allow planting earlier in the flavour (late Feb to belatedly March depending on the location). If the organic material is incorporated in the autumn, whatever sulfur required to lower the pH can exist added at the same time. Avert opening a furrow, adding the organic material and planting directly in the pure organic material. Water and nutrient management is probable to exist difficult in the pure organic material and plants are more probable to become weak and die.

Drainage

Huckleberry plants require excellent soil drainage, so provisions for drainage must precede planting. Soil maps or observing the soil contour may exist helpful in predicting internal drainage. Alternatively, digging a "dry well" can be a very effective means of determining soil drainage. Dig a hole(s) 6 to 8 inches deep and notice the water level following heavy rains. Water should not remain in the hole for more than than 24 hrs, otherwise select another site or plant on ridges high enough for the h2o level to reach 6 to 8 inches deep within 24 hrs.

Irrigation

In most seasons and on most soils, irrigation is absolutely essential the twelvemonth of planting. Hand watering with a hose is possible for several bushes, however, a soaker hose will usually give more uniform wetting. In larger plantings, systems using micro-sprinklers have been more successful than bespeak-source drippers. Even two drippers per plant ofttimes do not wet plenty of the soil in the root zone. At least 50% of the area under the drip line should exist wetted. The irrigation system must be designed for the college output of micro-sprinklers (about x gallons per hour) compared with ane or 2 gallons per hr for drippers. Marshal the micro-sprinklers to avoid saturated soil around the crown of the bushes. The utilise of automatic timers on drip or microsprinkler irrigation systems can consequence in shallow root systems and root rotting if systems utilise h2o daily. Apply irrigation no more than than once every two days to reduce the chances of root rot infection.

Sun Versus Shade

Total sunday is desirable but up to 50% shade is usually acceptable. However, yield is reduced with increasing shade, so plant in a sunny location to attain maximum yield.

What Species

Both highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) and the rabbiteye (5. ashei) types of blueberries tin exist grown in the Coastal Plainly and Piedmont. Yet, simply highbush will consistently survive the minimum winter temperatures below 10°F that regularly occur in the Mountains. The rabbiteye is more than drought and rut resistant and will tolerate a wider range of soil types than the highbush. For these reasons, rabbiteye is easier to establish and grow successfully in the Piedmont and on the drier soils of the Littoral Manifestly than highbush. More recently, a group of varieties referred to as southern highbush have been released. These varieties are intermediate between highbush and rabbiteye in soil and climate adaptation.

Varieties

Highbush varieties begin ripening in mid-May in the southeastern Coastal Apparently and in early July in the Mountains. Rabbiteye varieties begin in mid-June in the southeastern Coastal Plain. More than i rabbiteye variety must be planted to provide the cross-pollination required for maximum yields. Post-obit are varieties in society of ripening from early on to late that have been grown successfully and are recommended for homeowners:

Coastal Plain - Highbush: 'O'Neal' (southern highbush), 'Morrow,' 'Reveille,' 'Croatan,' 'Potato,' 'Bounty,' 'Blue Ridge' (southern highbush), 'Bluechip,' 'Jersey'

Coastal Plain and Piedmont - Rabbiteye: 'Climax,' 'Premier,' 'Tifblue,' 'Powderblue,' 'Centurion' Highbush: 'Blue Ridge' (southern highbush) and 'O'Neal' (southern highbush) take also been grown successfully on Piedmont soils. 'Legacy' (southern highbush) is worthy of trial in these regions also.

Mountains and Upper Piedmont - Highbush: 'Duke,' 'Sunrise,' 'Blueray,' 'Bluecrop,' 'Toro,' 'Berkeley,' 'Jersey'

Planting

a) Plants - two or iii-yr one-time plant nursery plants 12-36 inches tall will transplant well. The roots must be kept moist at all times betwixt earthworks and replanting.

b) Time - Belatedly winter (February-Mar) as soon equally the soil can be worked is best for bare-root plants; Fall (Nov-Dec) planting has been successful on sandy soil in the southeastern Coastal Manifestly with bareroot plants and in the other areas with potted plants.

c) Spacing - Plant highbush varieties every iv-v ft in the row and viii-10 ft betwixt rows. Found rabbiteye varieties every vi ft in the row and 10-12 ft between rows.

d) Depth - Plant to the same depth as the plants were growing in the plant nursery if organic mulch will be practical on the surface. When planting without mulch, plant ane-2 inches deeper to allow for soil settling, firm the soil effectually the plant with your feet and h2o thoroughly.

e) Cutting Back - Prune approximately ²⁄_iii of the pinnacle growth on bare-root plants and ^ane⁄_ii on potted plants leaving simply 1-3 of the most vigorous upright shoots. Remove any remaining flower buds (plump rounded buds), so that the plants will not flower the first twelvemonth.

Fertilization

a) Utilise Caution - Blueberries are easily damaged by backlog fertilizer. Employ the recommended corporeality from a soil examination report and allow 4 inches of rain or an equivalent amount of irrigation between applications.

b) First Year - Practice not fertilize immediately after planting. Wait until the first leaves have reached full size, then apply 1 Tbs of a special azalea fertilizer, 12-12-12 or 10-ten-10 inside a circle i foot from the plants. Echo application of fertilizer at six week intervals depending upon rainfall or irrigation until mid-August in the Littoral Plain and mid-July in the Mountains. Use 1/two Tbs of ammonium nitrate instead of the complete fertilizer for the 2d and subsequent applications if phosphorus was higher up sixty on the soil test.

c) Second Twelvemonth - Double the start year.due south rates, but increase the circle effectually plants to 1¹⁄_two ft . Utilize the start application when new growth begins in bound.

d) Bearing Plants - When growth begins in the jump, apply ane cup of complete fertilizer such every bit 10-10-10 within a circumvolve three ft from the plant. If more vigorous growth is desired, sidedress with ¹⁄₄ cup of ammonium nitrate at six week intervals. On mature bushes 6-12 inches of new growth is adequate for optimal residuum of found size and yield. Boosted growth must be pruned abroad. This may result in a loss in product, but information technology is necessary to go along the plants from becoming excessively large. Determine sidedressing requirement based on the amount of shoot growth.

e) Lowering pH - If the soil pH is slightly high in an established planting based on a soil examination; so sidedress with ammonium sulfate rather than ammonium nitrate. If the pH is 0.5 units or more than above the acceptable range, apply wettable sulfur in a narrow ring under the drip line of the bush-league at the rate of 0.1 lb per bush to lower pH 1 unit.

Mulching

Organic fabric such as bark, wood chips, sawdust or pino harbinger as a 3 to four inch mulch on the surface after planting results in more compatible soil moisture, reduces soil temperature and generally promotes improve coach growth and survival. Pine bark, chips or sawdust have a pH of three.five to 4.5 and are more than desirable than the same mulches from hardwood with an associated pH above 5.0. Withal, hardwood mulches on the surface accept been satisfactory. Avoid gluey hardwood sawdust that will .seal. the bed and forbid h2o infiltration.

Weed Control

a) Mulched - Mulching abode blueberry plantings is the best form of weed control. If mulch is practical post-obit planting and replaced at the rate of one inch per year, few weed problems should develop. Hand pull or hoe the occasional weed growth. If row middles are in sod, mow often to reduce invasion by runnering grasses and weed seeds into the mulched area.

b) Not Mulched - Avoid deep cultivation since blueberry roots are very near the surface. Hoe no more than than near 1 inch deep. In improver, hoe frequently (once every 2 weeks) when weeds are germinating to reduce contest with bush-league growth and to prevent disturbing the roots that will occur when large weeds are removed.

c) Herbicides - At that place are some chemical herbicides that homeowners tin use to control weeds. Please contact your local canton extension agent for current recommendations.

Pruning

a) Highbush - If the plants are cut back severely as recommended post-obit planting, petty pruning will be required the second yr except removing all flower buds and whatever weak, damaged or diseased growth. Use a similar pruning strategy the third year with the exception that several blossom buds can be left on vigorous shoots. In the fourth twelvemonth, the bush should be 4-five ft tall and capable of treatment a ingather, but carefully sparse flower buds to prevent overfruiting and astringent permanent bending of young canes under the fruit weight. When bushes are mature, remove old canes that are weak, diseased or damaged; cut dorsum tall, vigorous shoots to forcefulness branching at a lower level and to control bush meridian; and thin fruiting shoots to reduce the number of blossom buds by nearly l%. Clip during the dormant flavor. Late winter is about desirable especially in the Mountains.

b) Rabbiteye - During the first 3 years, pruning is very like to highbush; however, excessively tall and limber shoots will need cutting back to stimulate branching and strengthen the shoot. With mature bushes that are excessively vigorous in spite of low rates of fertilization, cutting dorsum the excessively vigorous shoots in late July will assistance control bush height and increase yield. Winter pruning of mature bushes is likewise like to the recommendation for highbush except detailed thinning of fruiting shoots on each cane is less critical, and more than suckers (shoots developing a altitude from the crown) volition require removal.

Harvest

a) Yield - With good care, mature highbush and rabbiteye plants should produce more than 10 lbs each year. Rabbiteye varieties tin on occasion produce up to 25 lbs per institute.

b) Bird Protection - Birds dearest to harvest blueberries. They can consume the complete crop from a pocket-size planting. Plastic or cloth netting draped over the bushes or supported on a framework, while the fruit is ripening, is the only practical control.

c) Frequency - Highbush blueberries volition be of all-time quality when picked every 5-7 days depending upon temperature. Rabbiteye flavor improves if berries are picked less often; well-nigh every 10 days allows for maximum flavor with few soft overripe fruit.

Potential for Organic Production

Blueberries tin often be grown successfully without insecticides and fungicides exterior of the commercial production areas of southeastern N Carolina. Japanese beetles tin occasionally cause damage to the fruit during ripening, but the foliage is quite resistant. Susceptible plants such equally roses or grapes will unremarkably exist defoliated before injury is seen on blueberries. The low rates of fertilizer required brand organic sources a viable alternative. Horse manure has proven to be a suitable source of nitrogen and rock phosphate provides acceptable phosphate. Weeds tin can be controlled with shallow cultivation or more desirably with mulch.

Sources of Plants

Blueberries are propagated vegetatively through the use of cuttings. Both hardwood (winter) and softwood (summer) cuttings tin can be rooted under mist without the use of rooting hormones. While this can be accomplished by the backyard hobbyist or by a local nursery, the all-time sources of uniform plants for establishing a new planting are nurseries that specialize in huckleberry propagation. Some commercial sources will sell single plants, while others require minimum orders of fifty to 100 plants. A partial listing of nurseries is included beneath.

Finch Huckleberry Plant nursery
P.O. Box 669
Bailey, NC 27807
(252) 235-4664
(Rabbiteye, southern highbush, highbush)

Ed Darden
106 Yellow Cut Road
Rose Hill, NC 28458
(910) 289-2849
(Southern highbush, highbush rabbiteye)

Atlantic Blueberry Company
475 S. Chew Road
Hammonton, NJ 08037
(609) 561-8600
(Highbush for mountains)

N.C. Foundation Seed Production
P.O. Box 33245, Method Station
Raleigh, NC 27606
(919) 737-2821
(Recent NC releases)

A.Thou. Ammon Nursery
P.O. Box 488
Chatsworth, NJ 08019
(609) 726-1370
(Highbush for mountains)

Tower View Nursery
70912 CR 388
South Oasis, MI 49090
(616) 637-1279
(Highbush for mountains)

Fall Creek Subcontract and Nursery, Inc.
39318 Jasper-Lowell Road
Lowell, OR 97452
(541) 937 2973
(Highbush, southern highbush)

For Further Reading

• Blueberry Culture, Rutgers Academy Press, New Brunswick, NJ
• Blueberry Diseases in Michigan, MSU Ag Facts Extension Bulletin No. E1731
• Blueberry Science, Rutgers University Printing, New Brunswick, NJ
• Blueberry Pest Management, NC Cooperative Extension AG-492
• Commercial Huckleberry Production in Florida, University of Florida Pub. No. SP179
• Compendium of Blueberry and Cranberry Diseases. APS Printing, St Paul, MN
• Diseases and Arthropod Pests of Blueberries. Due north.C. Agricultural Enquiry Service Message 468
• Highbush Huckleberry Production Guide, NRAES-55, Ithaca, NY
• Pocket-size Fruits in the Abode Garden. Gough, R.E. And E.B. Poling (eds). Food Products Printing, Binghamton, NY.
• Pocket-size Fruit Pest Management and Culture, University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service Message No. 102

Figure 1. Blueberry plant set in peat sand mixture.

Publication date: Nov. thirty, 2002

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Source: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/growing-blueberries-in-the-home-garden

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